The Two Hands of Kenya

Throughout my journeys, of which have been many, I have discovered a constant which I feel absolutely captures the people of Kenya.

If has been a long term quest of mine to try and distinguish the differences I saw within the people to just one characteristic, and I really think I have captured the main difference which separates the amazing people you stand to meet in Kenya, and the ones who want nothing more than to see you wallet less and broken.

It all was made clear to me about 2 weekends ago as I traveled through one of the larger cities in Kenya called Kisumu. Kisumu is a town on the banks of a gorgeous lake (of which I will show you all when I get to India and upload my 1200 pictures) which also meant that there were a lot of street children who could live buy catching fish and begging from tourists. But it was not through them asking me for money that brought me to this realization; it was when they started to demand from each other that I saw the light.

I can still see the picture as clear as day in my head a small boy of about 4 turned away from his street friend, hand out asking him from something... tapping his foot impatiently. The little boy obviously wanted something from his friend whether it is money or food, I don't know. But what it made me realize is that it wasn't JUST the tourists they expect handouts from, it was also each of the other street children and anyone else they would happen to meet on the street.

This to me characterizes nearly everything that I see as a negative about the country. Men and women waiting impatiently, tapping their foot waiting for their government, corporations, tourists and NGO's to start handing out donations. Not only do they want it, they expect it. When they don't get it that is when the real problems start and they resort to violence in the streets and robbing tourists.

The second character I have met is a direct contrast to the person I have mentioned above. The person who may or may not have anything to offer, but is more than willing to help you, the tourist or stranger, in anyway they can.

I would now refer to a friend I have just made in Mombasa (Hot coast, warm beaches as you will soon see in my next update).

When I arrived to Mombasa I met up with about 9 others looking for a good time, but more importantly a place to stay. One of the girls had an uncle whom she had not seen in over 10 years. But he had mentioned that he would be happy to host her. His name is Shadrack and I did not personally know him before arriving in Mombasa last Friday. Shadrack had a place about 10 minutes from the beach in a smaller suburb called Shanzu. All 10 of us showed up to his small place and asked if we could spend a few nights there. Shadrack welcomed us warmly and we ended up staying there 3 nights. The big kicker is that this single guy woke up every morning before us and made all 10 of us breakfast, then left for work.

Shadrack put us all up for 3 nights, cooked us breakfast and didn't ask for a cent in return.

Each of these two examples captures the two types of people I have met here in Kenya. And they, in some way or another, characterize each individual I have met.

I call this theory the palms up/palms down theory of Kenya. Those with palms up are always asking for something. Doing favors for you so that in the long term you will give them something they want. Looking for that next free grant, next free meal and most of all, next easy target they can make a victim of a crime.

The palms down people are always giving, even when they do not have enough to give themselves. They are willing to sacrifice the time to not only help you on our way, but to get to know you and ensure that you are fed and well educated about the background and history of Kenya.

Here's a quick example of very similar situations where a palms down/palms up individual completely changed the outcome of a given situation for me (actual examples, no names):

Palms up:

There was a Matatu I was taking in Nairobbery on Thika road towards the middle of downtown. The Matatu driver had started collecting money (a process which involves hissing noises like a cat and usually much shoulder poking.... literally) and I noticed that he had been collecting 30 shillings from each person heading to downtown. When it came down to my turn to hand my money he took my 50 and gave me back 40.

I sat there thinking to myself of the right way to react to the situation. Perhaps it was a mistake so I asked him "Hey, could I get the rest of my change". He asked me what change and I knew that it was going to be a showdown (this has happened well over 15 times since I have been here in Kenya). So I waited as he collected the rest of the 30's from people and then I sat there fuming. Wishing to make my point clear I said loud enough for everyone to hear:

"Hey Conductor... do you know what my definition of a racist has been since I arrived in your country?"

Him - "What?"

"Well a Stereotypical person is someone who thinks someone has money based on the way they are dressed, an Opportunist is someone who takes money from people because of their ignorance to the way things are, and a Racist is someone who takes money from someone based on the color of their skin and thinks they are ignorant enough to let it stand."

Him - "Well, I..."

"So look here you Racist, give me my 10 bob before I call the cops and tell him that a Mat conductor is robbing tourists."

* A few claps from the Matatu passengers and a 10 bob falling in my hand *

Palms down:

Another similar Matatu ride, with the same sort of robbing taking place:

Another man - "Hey, you can't charge him some thing different just because he is white"

Conductor - "I didn't charge him any different"

Man - "Yes you did, I just watched you charge him more"

Conductor - "Well maybe I just made a mistake with yours that will be 10 more shillings if you want to stay on the matatu"

Man - "I can see that you are truly someone with no pride in your life" * Hands him an extra 10, and he then hands me an extra 10 to make up for the difference. *

Without knowing it that man made my entire day, whereas I was so pissed off with the first example that I left work early and went home upset.

Seriously, regardless of the situation people fall into these two categories. Whether in business, AIESEC or simply people you meet on the street.

I have multitudes of examples here that are extremely similar in situation, but are extremely different in outcome based on the palm theory.

So from now on, when I refer to a person as being palms up or palms down you will all know what I am talking about!

I am back in Nairobi so I will be updating more frequently. In fact, I hope to update a bunch of times today about various things that have happened to me during the last month were I was essentially absent from my updating duties.

As usual, all apologies and much love,

Devan